My grading scale for toys and collectibles is loosely based on the AFA (Action Figure Authority) grading scale. As grading both professional and amateur is subjective I do try to take enough pictures and/or scans for my customer to get as close to the item they are bidding on as possible. As an example, one may not think in their opinion a piece is excellent or near mint, but all scales as mentioned are subjective, so please take a close look at the pictures I have uploaded with each listing. I try very hard to show each and every flaw, front, back, both sides, etc.
As with any auction please, if you have any concerns, feel free to send me a question or two or three. I want your experience shopping in my store to be as positive as possible.
For my own toys and collectibles I am a strict grader. My philosophy has always been while on eBay and before I would much rather the buyer be pleasantly surprised that the item they bought from me is better than expected. With that said, I try to get as close to a grade that I feel it is as possible.
A grade of poor - fair, fair - good, good - excellent, excellent - near mint, near mint - mint. A piece like this generally represents something that has a flaw that could detract from one general area, but if that one area did not have the blemish the rest of the piece would be the higher of the grades (again generally speaking).
A grade of plus or minus - Basically this means the grade is not quite the higher or lower grade.
Scale of Poor to Mint (again the is subjective and in my opinion, please ask questions if you have any concerns about a grade or picture)
Mint - no noticeable flaws to the naked eye
Near Mint - a factory flaw barely noticeable to the eye, a few negligible flaws that do not take away from overall showing of the toy or collectible
Excellent - flaws that can be seen, but in all do not detract from the overall showing of the piece
Good - for a loose figure one can tell this have been played with, several noticeable factory flaws, a lighter crease or two, etc
Fair - major creases, look of being dirty, folds, a minor tear, etc
Poor - really really bad!
Letter and number grade equivalents:
Mint: A+ or 95+
Near Mint: B to A or 85 - 94
Excellent: C to B or 71 - 84
Good: D to C or 60 - 70
Fair: F to D or 40 - 64
Poor: F- or 39 and below
Bubble - also known as the window or blister
Card - also known as the cardback/card back or box
How I look at the tightness of limbs and joints on loose figures. As with any personal grade everything is subjective, please feel free to ask questions.
Super Tight - Limb or Joint will not move. Can take light pressure to move it. Will feel as though there are light notches when moving the joint around.
Tight - May be moved easily with or without light pressure. The limb will hold its place though when moved though. If for example the arms are placed in a L position they will stay that way. The figure will stand on its own with no issues. The limbs do not wobble when the head is lightly shook.
Slightly Tight - Please see above. The biggest difference is the limbs may wobble with the head is lightly shook. When moved the limbs may not hold their position on the first try, but will when positioned.
Loose - Moved easily without pressure. The arms probably will not hold their place even when positioned. The legs will support the figure standing, but will wobble easily when the figure is shook lightly by the head.
Super loose - One can thump the arm and it will spin around like a pinwheel. The legs will not support the figure standing. The head could be close to popping off.